Taking Tea, Taking Time

I am on my third week of teaching English to 4th, 5th, and 6th graders, or really whatever they need me to teach, at whatever time. I'm realizing it's the American way to have systems and schedules that are rather rigid, and that it's not that way everywhere...

Within these systems in the U.S., I do not always perform the best. People who know me well generally tell me to arrive somewhere an hour before they actually want me to be there. My mother instituted the "double everything" rule with me, where I should take whatever amount of time I think something is going to take and then double it so that I actually make it on time. Brenda, my mission co-worker friend, thinks that the fact that I'm most attracted to elephants during game drives is also indicative of this personality trait- I like to go at my own pace. But amidst Kenyans that are more like me, I have never felt more American when it comes to keeping time.

My first day has set the general trend for how it works here. I was told I would start teaching three classes on Monday, each period having 35 minutes. I had a blast planning my lessons, gazing excitedly over text books and curriculums. I found that my creative process was heartily engaged during this exercise, and it was fun. First thing I learned on Monday morning was that I would be teaching double lessons- 70 min. Ok, no problem, I'll just teach them two days worth. Well, 70 minutes slowly turned to two hours and I've made it through my week's worth of lessons and the kids look like their heads are going to explode. Not only was it a ton of material to digest, but they have been having a rough time deciphering my accent on top of it. Lesson 1: take it slow.

Because my first class went so long I was "late" for my second class which only went for 20 minutes. Second lesson: plan for everything and- nothing. I eventually made it over to 6th grade for another unexpected double lesson. I finished explaining my word of the day vocabulary project, which I had proposed in each class, when a brave hand hesitantly rose in the air to ask simply, "what is a definition?" Great question. Deep too. Third lesson of the day: clarify each step- define, define, define.

At this point in the day I'm horribly confused about where I'm supposed to be at what time, and for how long. I was determined to get an answer, so I collected some of the class teachers so that we could figure out this whole schedule thing. My flood of questions seemed to confuse them and I was met with another question, "Have you taken tea?" "Well, no, but I'm trying to figure out when I'm supposed to teach so I know how to plan..." "Yes, yes, but first you must take tea," and with that I was shuffled over to the office where a cup had been prepared just for me. I was loosely promised a time table at the end of the day.

I still have yet to see this time table, but I have been taught to take tea time seriously. So what if I'm late to class if I've had a good conversation along the way? It's an accepted practice here so no one is ever mad or surprised when you are late, or if anything runs over time. In fact, people are more surprised when things actually do start on time (I was on time for church the other day and was one of 5 people there- the 400 other members came rolling in at half past or later). And it's ok, even good for a person to wake up every day not knowing what to expect. Control is illusory anyway, right?

Don't get me wrong, my American sense of timing (that I didn't know I had) still gets ruffled when I plan a really great lesson only to find that today is a gov exam day, or that the class 3 teacher quit unexpectedly, so that I would be with 3rd graders all day, but...I'm learning. I'm learning how to control less and stay in the moment more. I'm also learning a lot of improvisation and to go with the flow. I'm reorganizing my priorities and learning again and again that NOW and PEOPLE matter the most, and I'm happy my Kenyan community is holding me accountable to these values.

Off to bed now for who knows what tomorrow. Stay tuned for my adventures in farming and also a review of cultural day.

Pictured: Zakary, our school driver, taking a tea break on the farm. That's Mt. Kenya in the background.

Sweet, Sweetwaters

Visiting writer, church mouse here to report on our fabulous safari weekend spent at Sweetwaters Game Park. Deanna and Brenda thought they were alone in the vehicle with Boneface, the driver, but little did they know that I was a stowaway in one of their suitcases…The Mrs. outfitted me in safari boots, vest, and hat so I looked like a typical game drive participant.

All the animals came out to greet us as soon as we entered the park. It was as if they had been signaled ahead of time to put on a good show. Three of the “big five” appeared right away, crossing the road in front of us. Deanna scrambled for her camera as the safari vehicle whizzed away and Brenda laughed as she watched Deanna take in her first “I’m actually in Kenya” moments, promising better photo opportunities in the near future. I, on the other hand, froze in my seat at the size of the animals and the close proximity to our vehicle.

Next, was the short drive to our tent. Deanna and I were mentally prepared for roughing it, and had visions of re-enacting some “(wo)/man vs. wild” sketches. We knew we weren’t going to be eating bugs or drowning in rain water when we were met at Sweetwaters with umbrella escorts. They shuttled our bags to tent number one. Brenda had insisted that we should be closer to the water hole, and thus closer to the scary animals promising that there was a safe distance and an electric wire protecting us. I’m not sure how she thought a tiny electric wire and a 3 ft ditch was going to stop any animal from crossing, but I suppose she lived to tell the tale. Then, I got lost in the tent. It was at this time that the girls realized I was with them and I was quickly delegated to the verandah outside the tent- well, what they called a tent, and what I would call a Hilton room with cloth around it instead of walls.

After I gobbled up the crumbs from Deanna and Brenda’s five course breakfast, we went for our first game drive. Just before that, we arose to coffee on the verandah watching the sun come up over Mt. Kenya. Brenda was in search of her “twiga”- the giraffes, and Deanna couldn’t get enough “tembo”- elephants. I found the warthogs most curious. Our first stop was to Jane Goodall’s Chimpanzee Sanctuary. They say that humans are the closest to the chimpanzee and, wow, could I see the similarities. When Deanna and Poco took their little walk together, I thought they would have held hands had it not been the electronic force field protecting them both. For the most part, the chimps looked like bored teenagers, but I thought I heard the guard say they have 200 acres to play around in. After lunch, we went rhino petting. I stayed in the vehicle with Boneface, but peeped my head out enough to see that Deanna did indeed touch a rhino, even if it was at a far arm’s length. Brenda was getting a little anxious about her twiga at this point, but “ask and ye shall receive,” I heard that somewhere, and there popped out of the acacia a herd of giraffes. Brenda was really excited and a little more peaceful for the rest of the trip having gotten her fill. We spent the rest of the day watching the activity surrounding the water hole: more zebras, antelope, elephants, buffalo, impala, warthogs, and exotic birds.

We enjoyed our own sort of church waking up the next morning to the sound of birds. We were sad to be nearing the end of our two day excursion. They warded off their melancholy when a word from the desk arrived that lions and cheetahs had been spotted that morning. They didn’t shower or anything and loaded up the van for one last hoorah. Since cats and mice don’t really make very good bedfellows, I wasn’t at all excited about this prospect. Boneface took us on some back roads hoping we’d find my enemies in their solitary mood and therefore in a solitary spot. Then, there, under a bush, we saw some spots and some movement, and identified the cheetahs. I have no doubts that this is one cat that could definitely out run me. Luckily, they were distracted by Thompson gazelles. I breathed a sigh of relief when the ladies grew tired and hungry from the search, for I was not looking forward to seeing the biggest baddest cat of them all. Boneface promised Deanna, “next time” for sighting lions.

We sorrowfully left Sweetwaters, made a quick pit stop at the wood carvers’, and arrived safely home in Meru. I will promise to stowaway with the girls whenever possible and report back. Someone has to keep an eye on them.

Until next time,
~Church mouse

expecting rain

Spotty internet connection in Meru so far. And by spotty, I mean it’s been down for over a week. A practice in patience.

They say the long rains will start soon. Every day there is a long ritual hopeful gaze up in the sky, wondering if today will be the start. Instead, the wind kicks up the dust and the cows chew up the final few patches of green. This year, they will be thankful for El Nino, as it attempts to repair some of the damage that four years of drought has done. As my host mom says, “When Kenya has rain we are happy, when we don’t, we suffer.” An insightful comment on how they maintain a very delicate threshold here dependent on the unpredictability of the weather.

I am also in holding here. I arrived in Meru last week and have been in classes observing the ins and outs of the Kenyan style of teaching. Finally received my assignment yesterday to teach 4^th, 5^th, and 6^th graders English and maybe some Christian Ed. Music is also a must, as they sing almost incessantly here, in every class and are anxious to learn some new songs. They are thrilled that I play an instrument and so by outing myself, I may have incidentally been contracted to teach every student piano lessons. Yikes, we’ll see how that develops...

I was surprised myself at how excited I became at lesson planning. There is so much I can do with these kids because they are so bright, dedicated, eager, fun, and hard-working. The second graders I observed were practically leaping out of their seats to answer grammar questions. You’d have to pay most kids in the U.S.

A little bit about the school. It’s a primary school which ranges from preschool to 8^th grade and is partly a boarding school (all the rage in Kenya) and partly a day school. Students start as early as 6 am and “end” their day around 5 pm (boarders go until 9 pm). It’s a private school so leaves some room for some additional religious education. It also hosts a fair number of orphaned children who are on scholarship. Children are heavily structured, but incredibly happy. I knew I had arrived in good hands when the children welcomed me out of my van with a song and dance of “Jambo Bwana.”

wikendi meru

Probably our biggest highlight of this month long orientation has been our weekend spent in Meru as a group. It was our first road trip together which connotes bonding automatically, but we were overjoyed at how easy it was to also bond with the "youth" (ages 18-35) there. They had a youth rally for their presbytery and had activities planned all weekend with us in mind. We're definitely not used to all the attention, but we wrote it off as Kenyan hospitality at its finest.

It was everything we hoped it would be: a mutual cultural exchange. They schooled us in volleyball and soccer, taught us some new songs and dances, told some good stories...ok, maybe it wasn't exactly mutual in that we received a whole lot more... though Jacob (other YAV) did do a mean rendition of "the Princess Pat" (any campers out there?) that was requested several times after it was led. Anyway, the spirit of the whole thing was incredibly welcoming and warm.

In our "heart to heart" discussions, we talked about the many ways in which our lives were different. They were very interested to see how Americans view Kenyans. Unfortunately, much of the truth is that Americans see the poverty level, the HIV epidemic, and the violence before anything else. Oh, and they have animals. And wasn't Barack from there? I tried to pair this view with my own desires for coming to Kenya and gaining a perspective rich enough to educate and inform, so I'm hoping it's not the overall impression they took home that day about Americans. It even felt awkward to mention the general American's perspective on Kenya to people that had become friends in such a short time. It didn't fit them at all. Hopefully, they felt their general perspective on Americans was also oddly placed in the context of our newfound relationships. One labeled America as "up here" while Kenya is "down here." America as the ideal they were striving for... This struck me as somewhat sad- I definitely didn't ever think of myself as setting a bar for others, and definitely didn't think about devaluing others' way of life while I was at it. Ugh, the weight. But I think this is how attitudes start changing. We're both made more aware and will continue to live in such a way condusive to this relationship.

I'm moving to Meru on Thursday after I get cleared on my swine flu status. The weekend we spent there made me look forward to my time there immensely. Not sure if I mentioned my placement change, but I am now working in a primary school. I'll be teaching music or english, or whatever they need. I can't wait to get started there, and to make Meru my new home.

Random Update: Orientation

I’ve been in orientation for the past couple weeks. I’m feeling slightly more oriented- still getting used to the idea of being on the other side of the globe. Jet lag was hard to overcome, but was helped by the excitement of my host family who kept me awake, showed me around, and immersed me into the culture rather quickly. They were very warm and welcoming, calling me their daughter all weekend. My two younger sisters really made me feel at home with plenty of Kiswahili lessons, Beyonce singing, and Tusker Project 3 watching (their version of American Idol). They were a joy, but more on them later…

For the most part, we’ve been taking some Kiswahili in the morning, and then we attend lectures in the afternoon on Kenyan history, politics, religion, economics, ethnicity, etc. All the lectures have been given by very distinguished officials here, and have been pretty mind-blowing. I wish I knew more economics. The systematic oppression of the World Bank/IMF stuff is dizzying. And depressing.

Highlights apart from the schedule have included visiting A New Life, an orphanage for 0-3 year olds who are diagnosed with HIV. It was a very moving experience to be able to play with them and to see the new opportunities they are given from being there. It’s definitely good to be literally “in touch” with this issue while we’re here. I won’t forget them, and hence won’t be able to forget easily the HIV epidemic and how it affects, devastatingly, the “least of these.”

As a group, we’ve been growing together and are having a blast interacting with each other and all the Kenyans we meet. All in all, we’ve been really spoiled so far, living in a doctor’s “guest house,” being dinner guests at important people’s houses, eating delicious food cooked by my coordinator, and getting taken around in our own van everywhere we go. Not a lot of “on the ground” stuff yet, but at least we can hit it running after we get our heads filled with all this good stuff.

I was in Meru this past weekend with the group, which is where I’ll be living and working for the year. I LOVED it and am very excited to move. More on that later as I’m running out of space and time.

Tutaonana! Kwa heri!

Taking it all in...

It’s hard to process so much new at once, so I’m breaking it down a bit.

SIGHTS:

-Beautiful lush foliage. Despite the drought here, everything besides the grass remains green. At least in these upper class neighborhoods we’ve been staying in… Beautiful flowers: bougainvillea, birds of paradise, poinsettias. Everything grows here.

-The drought has brought cow herds at random to Nairobi. They are moving further and further into the cities in search of pasture. They block traffic.

-Speaking of traffic. There’s a lot of it, and unparallel to any other I have experienced. I rode their public transportation aka a matatu. First of all, I was squished, as they are cargo vans that they pack about 20 people in (max and legal amount is 14). As soon as one of these matatus approaches a jam, they swerve up on the sidewalk, or chance the diameter of a roundabout, or blatantly bustle down the wrong way on a one-way to bypass it. Time is money for them. Unfortunately, it’s also my life. Don’t worry, I’m told that even though they drive dangerously, they are very competent drivers.

-Nairobi is a mass of people and traffic everywhere. It feels like a big American city at rush hour all day. It’s all a lot more confusing and random for me though since I am so unfamiliar. They have some nice building structures and are trying to make it greener, but for the most part it feels like the city is consumed in one big pollution cloud. Lots of gray. I felt like I could finally breathe again when I was out in the ‘burbs again. Hopefully, I’ll find my niche there sometime.

- The disparity between the rich and the poor is definitely seen (at a second look) in their neighborhoods. There are large Italian style villas that have extensive grounds and full time staffed security right next to some of the largest slums in Africa- piles of sheet metal shacks on top of each other in a rut of mud. I almost missed them, but when my host father was taking me on a tour, we turned the corner and behind the large wall, a whole different world.

SMELLS:

-Smoke: people burning garbage, pollution

-Earth: people kicking up dust everywhere they go

-Sweet Tea Incense: there is some sweet smell, kind of like the tea steeping or fruit being sliced or squeezed

-All combines for something distinct, haunting, and actually pleasant

SOUNDS:

-A hip-hop reggae combo is popular here- similar to Reggaeton but African, if that makes sense. It blasts out the matatus.

-Church choirs seem to be practicing all the time here. The sound radiates from the open sanctuary windows. I wish I heard some distinctly African accapella action, but I’ve only been picking up on interesting sounding versions of American contemporary worship music.

-Kiswahili greetings and conversations as well as people speaking in their various mother tongues. English and Kiswahili are used pretty interchangeably here, and many times combined to form ShENG. ShENG should be announced the official language of Kenya. But besides these, there are 42 tribes, all with their own languages. Frequently, Kenyans speak at least three languages. I’m struggling to learn one new one.

-A cacophony of car horns and matatu drivers whistling for passengers.

-There is a 10% Muslim population in Kenya. Especially in Nairobi, you’ll hear the call to prayer from the mosques.

TOUCH:

-Everyone shakes hands in Kenya, and they do it for hello and good-bye, and even if you’ve met the person before a million times. I’m also a fan of the female-friend cheek touching on each side.

- The red dirt in Kenya definitely contrasts the green around it, and it clings to your skin and clothes. I never thought I’d use “dusty” as a way to describe how I feel. I like it though.

-We do a lot of praying. A lot of hand holding. Before meals, after meals. Before meetings, after meetings. Out loud, at the same time, all the time…

TASTE:

-I have drank a million cups of tea. Black, made with milk and sugar. It’s delicious and people offer it everywhere at all hours of the day. A great way to get to know someone.

- Nescafe. Gross. They grow the stuff, why don’t they drink it?

-Delicious fresh produce everywhere. I swear to you bananas have never tasted this good. Oh, and there’s passion fruit, papaya, guava, mango, avocado etc all readily available off the side of the road or at markets all over the place.

-A traditional Kenyan meal has some combination of rice, ugali (a grits kind of substance), a stew with vegetables and meat (maybe goat), beans, cabbage, chapatti (a crepe like thing), and beans and corn. Pretty good. Still gaining a taste for it.

PIC: host family members gnawing on some sugar cane

Soon to be on a jet plane

Leaving in 2 hours for Kenya. I am a big ball of nerves and energy, and even calmness as the time approaches. It was a very spiritually rich time for me at orientation this week. About 70 of us gathered together to gear up for assuming national or international placements as part of the program. For most of us, it means leaving all that we know behind for a year of the unknown. I've been reassured, though, by all the stories we've gathered from former YAVs. Largely, tales of finding mutuality in mission, and being constantly reminded of how God meets us on the margins. It was encouraging to hear their discomfort and awkward moments, but also about their moments when they found their true selves in their relationships with those they were "serving." At this point, I haven't gained any new information on what my job will be or what our month-long orientation schedule will look like, but I am excited to gain my own stories.

PS: pic of Cameron (India), myself, and Dana (Guatemala)- all getting psyched for our flights